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Cabinets, Drawers, Closets





RULERMAR.GIF, 1.6kB


LightClosetRef.jpg, 52kB Here is the closet by the refrigerator. A daylight white strip on top, and one on the bottom.
BANASTAR.gif, 1.5kB Darkness was over the surface of the deep, and the Spirit of God was hovering over the waters. And God said, "Let there be light," and there was light.
Genesis 1:1
I hovered over this dark closet, and wondered what am I going to do with it? I had a few magnetic door switches in my junk box. They work great! I ordered more. With hands full of magnetic switches, I just went crazy...
If it has a door and it is dark on the other side, it gets one of these.


LightCouchBack.jpg, 14kB Here is a hatch door behind the couch. The door lifts up vertically. You do not have to deliberately place things in here; Gravity makes them just fall in.


LightDrawerRef.jpg, 15kB This drawer is above the Power Center. I can grab a tool fast. No complaints on the brightness; It is super bright because this little drawer uses an intire LED strip.


LightSinkDrawer1.jpg, 14kB The top drawer below the sink has plastic forks. I have never washed dishes in the RV in over 9 years. On my cast iron skillets, I only "wipe" them out. I keep the glaze or "seasoning" and clean up is easy without washing. I use Pure Leaf Tea bottles for glasses. They are spill proof, disposable, unbreakable, and fit in the lawn chairs.


LightSinkDrower2.jpg, 16kB The bottom drawer below the sink was an experiment with blue light. ...Not too impressive.


LightSinkTop1.jpg, 16kB Here is one of the top cupboards above the sink. It is on the left.


LightSinkTopBoth.jpg, 21kB Both cupboard doors are open at the same time, and both sides lit, and contribute individually. I suppose, I wanted to compare the two color temperatures, side by side. But now that I know, it is too much work to take out the warm one. I never thought out enough beyond the curiosity.


LightSinkTopRight.jpg, 15kB The light strip for the Right cupboard is a warm color. I do not like it as much as the 6000 degree White light.


RULERMAR.GIF, 1.6kB
LightTopL.jpg, 65kB The paper plates last about a a week or two. 1/2 inch styrofoam is at the top on ceiling surfaces. The back wall is, at present, only in Reflectix. It is not as good as 1/2 inch styrofoam.

The plug goes to the microwave. Came that way. Goofy set up. I have been looking at it for 9 years. Sick of it!


BANASTAR.gif, 1.5kB By the word of the Lord the heavens were made, their starry host by the breath of his mouth.
Psalm 33:6
They know nothing of the laws of physics. I should lift the box out of the wall; there is no insulation behind it, or if so it is smashed insulation. RVs are not houses! Wires can not be ran in the walls like houses, and utility boxes can not be installed in the walls like houses. Laws of physics always trump laws of manufacturers.


LightUnderStove.jpg, 17kB This cupboard is down on the floor, under the stove. I am getting rid of some of these cans. I found a can of green beans that was 2009, the year that I got the RV. I opened a can of pears that was 2013, and I could tell by the taste that they were old. They were still sweet, so I ate them. I was trying to stay well stocked in case of an emergency. But I guess it is not going to work...
I love the concept of heavy cans for thermal inertia, and storing heat. I love the concept of heavy cans in a low center of gravity spot. But, despite the plusses, it is not going to work. It may work under a different management strategy. For example: No Prepper mentality. How are you going to cycle can usage?


LightClosetBed.jpg, 52kB This closet is a half height, only for shirts, blouses, tops. Two of its walls are "outside" walls and are insulated. One in reflectix, because it is a curved surface, and the other in reflective styrofoam. The black thing in the back is a speaker for the left side of the bed. Two striplights, one at the top, and one low on the left. I have already raised the bar once. It came from the factory even lower than this. If I go any higher the coat hangers hit. I guess the whole RV is a compromise. Nothing new...

Gary-Eggs.jpg, 186kB


Light-BathSink.jpg, 28kB Under the bathroom sink there are two sections, both lit when the door is open. You can see the Preheater for the faucet water on the top left.


Light-BathD1.jpg, 26kB First aid stuff, and toothpaste.


Light-BathD2.jpg, 18kB The rags do not belong here. But it is what it is.
You can see, when the drawer is packed to the top, visibility is reduced.


This drawer hits the commode lid.
Keystone Drawer installers did not communicate with the Commode installers.
Or a new Keystone RV is only a preliminary prototype used for ideas. The purchaser is expected to figure out the actual details of how to make it work in the Real World.


LightSwMe.jpg, 80kB I will take a break here, and show you how I did the drawers. There are no switches showing, and there are no magnets showing. All the Light Strips are stuck to the wooden rail just above each drawer. The ends of each light strip must have additional adhesive on the ends. The ends are temporarily held in place with gorilla tape while the adhesive sets.

I like to use clear vinyl Caulk/adhesive. Don't EVER use silicone! It is difficult to remove, and attracts dirt. Silicone is prone to leak with no visible crack or indication. Silicone can not "reseal" itself at the surface layer. Silicone is good on aquariums, on everything else; it is crap!


LightSwBlock.jpg, 22kB First, cut a block of wood, and place a switch, indented in from the edge. The magnet will engage the front of the switch, and the magnet will come close to the screws. Cut slots on the sides of the block to accommodate a tie wrap.


LightSwOnRail.jpg, 23kB The switch on the block will eventually slide down the rail to the back. It is held in place with a tie wrap. But to make work easier, I have given enough wire to temporarily slide the switch to the front of the rail.


LightSwMagBack.jpg, 27kB The magnet is placed on the back of the drawer, quite out of sight. The magnet is placed the same height as the block of wood. It is perfect at the top of the plastic.

The two holes in floor of the drawer inclosure of the previous picture are for the forced air ventilation. Small fans force air flow in every cabinet, and every drawer in the RV. The fans run off of the Reject power by default, but if damp clothes are placed in cabinets at night, the switch can be placed in Manual. I only use 24 volt fans under 12 volt power to keep the fans silent. Also, they should last for about a million years.


LightBedD2.jpg, 27kB Here is the middle drawer of the three drawers. The mechanisms are hidden and not exposed to snagging.


RULERMAR.GIF, 1.6kB Not shown here are all the fans, for each drawers, cabinet, and closet. The fans pull the cold air air out of hidden away closets and cupboards, and replace with warm air.
Also, pull any condensation away from cold surfaces hidden away in closets. And that includes drying of cloths.
Also, use the thermal inertia, from stuff inside the drawers, cabinets, closets and cuboards, at night, to increase the insulation value of the coach as a whole.



VentR-Chrome.jpg, 42kB All the fans were of the 4 inch variety, or 80mm. There were 6 or 7 fans of different construction: sleeve bearings, ball bearings, different volumms and loudness. Ventilation work was done before the LED Lighting work on all the drawers, cabinets, closets and cuboards. Also, this ventilation work is for Internal Ventilation only, and does not include the three external ventilation avenues.


That ventilation is over here:
Ventilation of Cabinets, Drawers, Closets  





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